Pitigliano, Sorano, and Sovana: discovering the tuff towns

There are places in the Maremma where it’s hard to tell where the rock ends and the houses begin. Pitigliano, Sorano, and Sovana are three villages that illustrate this unique relationship between people and the landscape: homes built on tuff, medieval alleyways, ancient cemeteries, and mysterious roads carved into the stone by the Etruscans.

We are in the southern Maremma, a region of hills and deep valleys, far from the coastal landscapes. Here, tuff is not only the material used to construct the buildings, but also the element that has shaped entire settlements.

From the Hotel Granduca in Grosseto, we recommend spending a full day exploring these towns, all of which are accessible by car. Our itinerary begins in the picturesque town of Pitigliano, continues on to Sovana, and ends in Sorano.

9:30 a.m. – Pitigliano, the village that seems to rise from the rock

The first stop is Pitigliano, probably the most picturesque village among the Tuff Cities.

As you approach the village, you’ll see the houses rising directly from a large tuff rock spur, atop nearly vertical cliffs. It’s a striking sight, especially because the color of the buildings blends in with that of the rock below.

Before entering the historic center, we recommend stopping at one of the scenic overlooks along the road where parking is permitted: viewing Pitigliano from a distance is one of the most memorable moments of the visit.

Once you reach the village, you can begin your walkat the Medici Aqueduct and Piazza della Repubblica, which offer sweeping views of the valleys.

As you continue through narrow alleys, under arches, and past small squares, you’ll come across Palazzo Orsini—the former residence of the family that ruled the area, now home to museums—and the Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul, in the heart of the historic center.

There’s no need to stick to a rigid itinerary: Pitigliano is one of those towns where it’s worth taking the time to explore the side streets as well.

10:30 a.m. – Little Jerusalem and Pitigliano’s Jewish History

One of the things that sets Pitigliano apart from other Tuscan villages is its significant Jewish history.

The town is known as “Little Jerusalem,” a name linked to the presence of a Jewish community that, for centuries, has contributed to the cultural, economic, and social life of the area.

In the historic center, you can visit the Jewish quarter, with its synagogue and the spaces once used by the community, including the matzo bakery, the ritual bath, and the kosher cellar.

We highly recommend this tour to history enthusiasts, as it offers the chance to discover a lesser-known part of Tuscany and gain insight into how different cultures have coexisted in this region.

12:00 p.m. – Sovana, a small village steeped in history

Leaving Pitigliano behind, the itinerary continues toward Sovana, a much smaller but equally fascinating village.

Here, the pace of the visit changes. The historic center is compact, traversed by a cobblestone street that connects medieval buildings, churches, and small squares.

The heart of the village is Piazza del Pretorio, surrounded by historic buildings and the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore. Among the most distinctive buildings are the Palazzo dell’Archivio, recognizable by its clock, and the Palazzo Pretorio.

Continuing through the village, you’ll reach the Co-Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul, one of the most important examples of Romanesque architecture in the Maremma.

The building’s location, on the outskirts of town, adds to its charm.

Sovana is a town that’s pleasant to explore on foot and is an ideal stop for those seeking authentic villages, rich in history but less crowded than the more well-known destinations.

1:00 p.m. – A lunch break featuring the flavors of the countryside

After visiting Sovana, you can stop for lunch at a trattoria in the village or nearby.

The cuisine of this part of the Maremma is rooted in rural traditions and the produce of the inland region. Among the specialties worth trying are Maremma tortelli, wild boar dishes, and dishes featuring mushrooms, cheeses, and local products.

Wine also plays an important role in the region’s gastronomy: among the local wines is the Bianco di Pitigliano DOC.

On weekends and during peak seasons, it’s advisable to make a restaurant reservation in advance.

2:00 p.m. – The Etruscan Vie Cave and the Città del Tufo Archaeological Park

One of the most fascinating aspects of this region lies just outside the towns.

The Vie Cave are ancient paths carved directly into the tuff rock, with walls that in some places exceed twenty meters in height.

Walking through these stone corridors is a unique experience: light filters down from above, the walls seem to close in, and the landscape takes on a completely different appearance than that of the villages.

The Vie Cave are generally associated with Etruscan civilization, but their original function has not been fully clarified. They may have been used as connections between settlements and necropolises and may also have had ritual significance. In the vicinity of Sovana, there is also the Città del Tufo Archaeological Park, which features important Etruscan artifacts, including the monumental Ildebranda Tomb.

For a one-day itinerary, we recommend choosing an archaeological tour or a short hike along the Vie Cave, rather than attempting to explore the entire area. Trail accessibility may vary depending on terrain conditions and the season: we recommend wearing appropriate footwear and checking in advance which trails are open.

4:00 p.m. – Sorano, the village of fortresses and houses carved into the rock

The final stop on the itinerary is Sorano, a village perched on a tuff spur surrounded by deep valleys.

The village has a very distinctive appearance: stone houses, narrow alleys, stairways, and ancient defensive structures seem to blend into the rock.

Sorano is sometimes called the “Matera of Tuscany” because of its cave dwellings and structures built into the tuff. Although it has a different history and distinct characteristics, this nickname helps you picture the landscape you’ll encounter. The most important landmark is the Orsini Fortress, a large defensive structure that overlooks the village and bears witness to Sorano’s strategic role over the centuries.

As you stroll through the historic center, you can also reach the Masso Leopoldino, a fortified terrace offering a beautiful view of the town and the surrounding valleys. We recommend ending your day here, taking some time to enjoy the panoramic views and the village’s narrow streets before heading back to Grosseto.

Three villages, three different experiences

Although Pitigliano, Sorano, and Sovana are often mentioned together, each has its own distinct identity.

Pitigliano is particularly striking for its spectacular location and the history of its Jewish community. Sovana captivates visitors with its cozy medieval center and Etruscan ruins. Finally, Sorano surprises with its fortifications and houses that seem to emerge from the rock.

By visiting them all in a single day, you’ll discover three different ways in which history has shaped the Maremma landscape.

Pitigliano, Sorano, and Sovana from the Hotel Granduca

The Tuff Towns are located in the southern Maremma, in the inland area of the province of Grosseto. From the Hotel Granduca, at Via Senese 170, Pitigliano is about an hour and a quarter away by car, depending on the route and traffic.

To visit all three villages, we recommend setting out in the morning and spending a full day on the excursion. If, on the other hand, you’d prefer to explore the necropolises in greater depth and hike more sections of the Vie Cave, it’s best to spread the activities over two days.

Those who love inland landscapes can also explore our itinerary dedicated to Saturnia and the thermal baths: a day in the heart of the Maremma, another excursion combining villages, nature, and relaxation.

When staying at the Hotel Granduca, you can alternate these days of exploring the area with the comfort of the hotel and, upon your return, treat yourself to dinner at our restaurant.

And if you’d like some advice on planning your visit, just ask our front desk: we know the Maremma well and can help you choose itineraries, experiences, and guided tours with local tour guides.

Contact us to plan your stay at the Hotel Granduca and discover the Tuff Cities and the Maremma.